Return to Tavanti

Ciao from FIRENZE!

I opened the tall louvered shutters this morning at the crack of dawn. Anyone who knows me knows that I’m rarely up at the crack of anything. But I’m in the grips of jet lag, so when the birds woke me at 5:30, I had to open the shutters to greet them. It’s the Italian way to start the day.

I love the shutters of Florence. Some swing wide in an open-arm embrace. Some kick out, allowing the air to come in, but not the light. There are sliding shutters that disappear into the wall.

I’m staying with my friend Gaya, near Via Tavanti. She lives in a building that’s elegantly Old World, with a stone facade and a winding central stairwell with iron-and-wood bannisters. Her spacious apartment has high ceilings with a Murano glass chandelier in the dining room…

and radiators that have little boxes where you’re meant to put bricks to warm your bed. I tuck my jammies and bedsocks into the warming box in my room.

Although it’s December, the weather is sunny and mild…and the mosquitoes haven’t fled yet for the winter. The mosquito nets are tied up artfully over the beds at Gaya’s place. Last night, I was tempted to untie mine and take shelter from the mosquito that was dive-bombing my left ear.

It’s a beautiful morning with lots of blue sky. There’s a Mercato di Natale (Christmas market) in a nearby piazza today. Heading off to check it out…

Tonight I’m having a little dinner party at La Giostra for some of the characters in the book…stay tuned.